Although much of the road is closed during the winter, the Beartooth Highway still ranks among the West’s best winter recreation hotspots. Between the spouting geysers of Wyoming’s Yellowstone National Park and the high elevation elegance of Red Lodge, Montana, you’ll find a wealth of skiing opportunities to keep you and your family entertained this snowy season.
Begin your adventures in Yellowstone National Park, which lies at the byway’s western end. Ski lessons and rentals are available, so take advantage of them on the many groomed cross-country ski trails that meander through the park. The Bannock Trail covers two easy miles through freshly powdered meadows and past rustic conifers before joining a snowmobile trail that takes you to right to Cooke City, Montana.
If you have more extreme tastes, gather your friends and your best ski gear and push off on Yellowstone’s Pebble Creek Trail through 13 miles of unbroken snow. You’ll need to bring along experience, energy, and overnight supplies in case you don’t make it back before dark. The northeastern corner of Yellowstone and the Cooke City area are also ideal for telemark skiing, a type of downhill skiing where your heels are free just as in cross-country skiing. Don’t forget to check trail conditions at a ranger station before you head out.
In November, come to West Yellowstone, just over an hour from the byway’s western end, for the Yellowstone Ski Festival. Usually landing on Thanksgiving weekend, this event is a celebration of cross-country skiing. Improve your skills at a ski clinic, strive for the lead in the ski races, wander through the booths at the indoor ski show, and don’t miss the ‘Try It and Buy It’ gear demonstration, where outdoor outfitters allow you to try out their latest and greatest products and apparel.
Just a couple of miles east of Yellowstone along the Beartooth Highway, you’ll enter Cooke City, MT, a small town with a big appetite for the outdoors. Nearby guest ranches offer plenty of cross-country skiing opportunities. Blaze a trail through the woods, and perhaps you'll come across elk, moose, or deer. Rent a yurt, a semi-permanent, self-supported tent-like structure, and you’ll always be just a few steps away from a ski trail.
Sections of the Beartooth Highway might be closed to traffic in the winter, but you can still follow portions of the road itself on cross-country skis or snowshoes. Strap either one to your feet and head out along the highway’s snow-covered switchbacks underneath a dazzling, ever-changing Montana skyscape, or follow the route that parallels the highway, climbs a couple thousand not-too-challenging feet in elevation, and presents epic views of the byway and its pristine surroundings on cross-country skis or snowshoes.
For some downhill thrills, wax your skis and head up to Red Lodge, MT at the byway’s northeastern end. Accessible via I-90/Billings in winter, you’ll find Red Lodge Mountain ski area only 10 or so minutes out of the town. This ski resort offers seven lifts, 73 groomed trails, and a full range of difficulties, making it a perfect place to take your family.
Another ski spot waits for you eight minutes west of Red Lodge. The Red Lodge Nordic Center maintains trails for horseback riders, hikers, bikers, and, in the winter, for cross-country and skate skiers. Beginners can appreciate the level terrain, while nearly everyone will appreciate the serene winter beauty of the surrounding mountains.
Whatever your preference-- cross-country, downhill, telemark, or skate -- you’ll find what author Charles Kurault called the “most beautiful drive in America” also among the most ski-worthy. When you crave gorgeous mountain views, deep glistening slopes, and the feel of a pair of runners strapped to your feet, join your family and friends on the Beartooth Highway for the adventure of the season—skiing!
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Beartooth Highway All-American Road Overview