A fairly recent addition to the canon of nationally recognized Utah climbing areas, Joes Valley bursts with hundreds of routes on gorgeous sandstone boulders. Located just outside of Orangeville on the Energy Loop: Huntington and Eccles Canyon Scenic Byway, Joes attracts bouldering enthusiasts from around the world to try their skills on some of the valley's classic problems. With sandy landings, bomb-proof holds, and gorgeous surroundings, you'll find enough prime rock to push your climbing to a new level.
Throw up some tents in the campground near the reservoir, strap on your bouldering pad and head to the Left Fork and warm up at the scenic Riverside area. With gigantic boulders hanging over the stream's emerald green pools and soft sandy banks, Riverside boasts the classic Angler problem. Rated at V2, this perfectly shaped rail tops out high above the water, serving as a motivation for careful climbing, especially during winter months. After warming up, head across the road to Big Joe's for tougher climbs like the unforgiving but thrilling V9 Smoking Joe.
Take Cottonwood Canyon Road up to the Right Fork and discover one of the valley's highest concentrations of boulders. If you want a confidence builder, start off with Sole Food on the Boy Size Area's Sabotage boulder. This fantastic V0 features rock so impeccable you'll forget that it's sandstone. Right Fork brims with problems for all skill levels. Man Size Area, in particular, features some of the best problems in the valley. Fingerhut, the epic V10 on the Man Size boulder, features a fantastic, overhanging horizontal finger crack that might make you cry.
New Joe's, the most popular spot in the valley, lies farther east. This south-facing slope welcomes you on cold days when direct sunlight is scarce at other areas. Nestled among junipers and pinons, New Joe's contains such boulder fields as Area 51, home to a variety of superb moderate climbs and the mind-numbingly difficult Black Lung. At V13, an ascent of Black Lung is worthy of a picture in the climbing magazines and national recognition, so bring a camera and a reliable witness.
If the thought of tackling one of the hardest problems in the United States intimidates you, rest assured that Joes Valley brims with enough beginner and intermediate climbs to occupy several days worth of extraordinary climbing. Joes can be climbed year-round, but spring and fall are the best times to experience the valley. In the summer temperatures regularly soar at ninety degrees or more, shade is scarce, and the sandstone gets greasy in the heat.
Unearthing History on the Energy Loop
The Energy Loop: Huntington/Eccles Canyons Scenic Byway Overview