Winter's Quiet Escape: Dinosaur Diamond and Grand Mesa

While the idea of skiing often conjures up thoughts of the West’s many downhill ski resorts, both the Dinosaur Diamond Prehistoric Highway, which spans the border between Utah and Colorado, and nearby Grand Mesa Scenic Byway in Colorado take skiers off the slopes and introduce them to a world of snow-covered beauty outside the confines of organized downhill skiing. Take these byways through Utah’s Manti-La Sal and Ashley National Forests, and Colorado’s Grand Mesa National Forest, and you’ll find no shortage of scenic grandeur on your frosty cross-country skiing adventures.

Journey southeast from Salt Lake City on Highway 40 over the Wasatch Mountain Range to the Indian Canyon section of Utah’s Dinosaur Diamond just south of Duchesne. Here, you can strap on your skis for a snowy mountain glide on Reservation Ridge in the Ashley National Forest. From Duchesne, follow Highway 191 south toward Helper and turn west onto the Reservation Ridge Trail (FR 147). The trail begins about a mile from the Avintaquin Campground and continues west for about 17 miles through mild forest terrain. Let the brisk mountain air nip at your nose when you reach the summit of Indian Canyon at 9,040 feet and enjoy the awe-inspiring views from the overlooks at Indian Head and Cat Peak. Lean in and follow the path your skis cut in the snow as you begin your journey over the sagebrush-covered West Tavaputs Plateau, north of the White River's frozen banks. Slide through stands of aspen and pine, that open up to icy views of rugged cliffs and steep canyons.

A backcountry ski experience considered by many to be one of eastern Utah’s best-kept secrets, the snow-covered La Sal Mountains combine the serenity of winter with the stunning beauty of Moab’s red rock paradise. Rising 7,000 feet above the surrounding terrain, a world of glistening meadows and towering evergreens ushers you effortlessly into a state of complete peace, begging you to leave behind the cares of the outside world. To ensure that your experience is as safe as it is rewarding, make sure you are prepared. Print off a trail map, check local weather reports, and call the Moab Information Center’s winter hotline, 435-259-SNOW.

Your adventure in this area begins on the La Sal Mountain Loop Road, about 10 miles southeast of the Dinosaur Diamond in Moab. The road is paved and well-plowed, but consider using a vehicle with four-wheel-drive or chains in case of snow patches or sudden snowstorms typical of mountain country. Continue north to Mt. Tomasaki and lose yourself for a few hours in the backcountry. If you’re a beginner, several flat meadows, such as the Trailhead at the end of Geyser Pass Road, with restrooms and plowed parking, are ideal places to learn the ins and outs of Nordic skiing. Glide through a sea of powder in the Tomasaki Basin to the snowfields below, a flurry of soft white snow the only other movement around. Take a deep gulp of cool mountain air and explore the contrast of snow atop delicate-looking red rock formations or the simple beauty of frosted sagebrush. If you're craving more than just a day trip, reserve a room for an overnight stay in one of several fully-equipped cabins near the trailhead.

For more snowy solitude, follow the plowed Geyser Pass Road east after the turnoff from the La Sal Mountain Loop, and make your way to Gold Basin. This area is closed to snowmobilers, but cross-country and telemark skiing is permitted. Telemark, or “freeheel” skiing, is a form of downhill skiing in which the heel is unfastened to the ski. Listen to the rush of your skis beneath you on the Gold Basin Trail as they slide over the Canyon Country’s drifted snow. Stop to watch the sun shed its last rays of light over the Moab Rim and enjoy the gentle glow reflected in the snow all around you. By moonlight, the basin transforms into a mystical passage through snowy red rock silhouettes that glimmer eerily as you pass. Finally, glide around Dark Lake east from Geyser Pass and around Mount Mellenthin on the Dark Canyon Trail and explore the gentle contour of the surrounding red canyons, while you take in views of the Paradox Basin and the San Juan Mountains.

Across the Colorado border, near the southeastern edge of the Dinosaur Diamond, the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway begins. Known as the world’s largest flat-topped mountain, Grand Mesa towers 10,000 feet above sea level and boasts an early and long-lasting ski season. Depending on the weather, the mesa is usually skiable from early December to April. An environment that favors the self-sufficient, the mesa has three extensive trail systems off Colorado’s Highway 65 designated especially for skiers. If you’re planning a more relaxed approach, either the Skyway or County Line trail systems will take you over gentle, groomed tracks that offer rewarding views of a winter wonderland. On the northeastern section of the Skyway Trail, let your eyes wander over a snow-covered view of the Book Cliffs’ shale walls while you experience the subtle sense of grandeur that arises from your peaceful surroundings. On the County Line Trail, propel yourself over the gentle landscape to an awesome view of the San Juan Mountains, which give off an almost otherworldly glow in the moonlight.

Eight miles south of the town of Mesa on the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway, Colorado Discover Ability, an organization dedicated to enabling the disabled, brings the excitement of skiing to the visually impaired. At Powderhorn Resort on the edge of the Grand Mesa, skilled instructors use technology such as bamboo poles, ski bras (metal devices that attach to the tips of skis), and reins attached either to the skier or the skier's ski bras to help even the most visually impaired join their sighted companions in enjoying a day on the slopes.

One of the West’s finest examples of “quiet recreation,” winter on the Dinosaur Diamond and Grand Mesa scenic byways creates a timeless feeling of release from the pressures of everyday life, a pastime both downhill and cross-country skiers of all ages eagerly embrace. See for yourself, and you’ll be drawn to the exhilarating winter mystique that unfolds along these byways.