If you take a drive down Logan Canyon Scenic Byway, you'll notice dramatic limestone and quartzite cliffs towering above you on both sides of the road. 70,000 years ago, Lake Bonneville carved and polished walls out of 500 million year-old rock, forming overhanging caves, soaring spires and sheer cliffs. While these are pleasant to look at, they're an absolute riot to climb. With towering multiple pitch climbs, sublimely difficult caves, and a great toproping area for beginners, Logan Canyon's allure to the climbing community is irresistible.
You'll find a good mix of bolted sport routes and trad routes in the canyon with an impressive range of difficulty. The First and Second Practice Walls are great beginner or warm-up areas. If you're looking for a good first lead, check out The Lost Bolt at First Practice Wall, the best 5.7 in the canyon. Second Practice Wall is all toproped, with routes rated as low as 5.4, making it the safest and easiest spot for beginners and kids. Fucoidal Quartzite is another great spot with a variety of climbs for all levels. It's also pretty crowded, so get there early on weekends or climb during school hours if you want the rock to yourself.
Logan Canyon is packed with tons of crags if you want to get away from the weekend warrior crowd. Most folks won't hike more than fifteen minutes from the byway, so even on busy days you'll find plenty of rock off the beaten path. The Cliffs of Insanity, for example, requires a steep 15-minute hike but rewards you with lots of advanced limestone climbs and some tranquility. If you're feeling extra ambitious, make the 40-minute hike to Crag in the Sky deep in the canyon with some great 5.10-5.13 climbing. You're almost guaranteed a quiet, shady day of intense climbing.
For the hard-core, China Wall Cave is the canyon's crown jewel. Dramatically overhung and featuring practically nonexistent holds, the rock is coated with chalk from thousands of gnarled fingers, and the ground is littered with broken spirits and shattered dreams. Super Tweak, the first confirmed 5.14b in the United States has long been a proving ground for the elite climber and remains one of the hardest climbs in the country. Consisting of nothing but slopers and one-fingered "mono" holds, Super Tweak is brutal to the point of being almost ridiculous. For a select few, though, it's the number one reason to visit Logan Canyon.
The canyon's pristine limestone and sheer cliffs don't only attract climbers. Various endemic plants also enjoy the canyon's attributes, including the threatened Maguire Primrose. Also, the visual quality of the canyon for other visitors' enjoyment must be considered. A few areas have been closed to rock climbing due to the presence of threatened plant life or a risk of detracting from scenic views. Inform yourself about sensitive areas at the Forest Service bulletin boards located at the Second Practice Wall, Fucoidal Quartzite, or the 385 wall before hitting the limestone.
